We’ve taken the time to explore several of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses to discover and highlight significant designer bridal couture trends emerging for the 2017 Spring Bridal Wear season. The designers have been selected based on our favourite wedding couture collections shown on Vogue.

ZUHAIR MURAD

Zuhair Murads’ Spring 2017 Bridal collection is shot in a beautiful rocky ocean setting with a breeze blowing his lightweight silk skirts, creating natural billowing silhouettes full of life and dreaminess. The bridal couture collection is a strong reinterpretation of the traditional bridal look with subtle refinements. The collection incorporates laces with sequined and beaded detailing in luxurious paisley patterning and floral motifs.

The classical silhouette has been extensively explored in this bridal offering – focusing on bodice and skirt combinations and manipulations. The range is heavily embellished in a general sense; mixing skirt combinations, 2-piece options with overskirts and flowing 1 piece mermaid styles. A variety of traditional, conservative wedding styled gowns appear in this wedding line all the way through to edgier mesh, full length designs with applique panelling of lace selectively hand sewn throughout in different densities.

VERA WANG

Vera Wang chose a unique way to communicate her latest couture wedding addition by employing Gordon von Steiner to create a film to capture the mood of a bride to be. Her usual edgy approach questioning what a bride could wear was once again explored in her Spring 2017 Bridal collection, no fear hear. Her signature structured approach to design is once again apparent in her silhouette with pronounced, sculptural neck pieces, oversized collared tops and heavily pleated structured skirts with asymmetric volumes and great fullness.

Varieties of gathering techniques were explored to create fullness in Vera Wangs’ latest bridal gown offering. Another major feature of this collection is the use of boning to create structure. The boning has been cleverly expressed as a feature of the work both for tailoring and aesthetic purpose. In selected areas the cased boning has also been used to create further volume, reminiscent of peplums in heart shaped, fluid surfaces extending out from the waist line.

Vera Wangs’ collection is clearly an exploration of the traditional bridal fashion silhouette and its possibilities to create an alternative, new look for fashion savvy brides. In a deliberate move away from traditional lace, Vera manipulates her chosen textiles in a particular way to create shape and volume, allowing the materials to express their own beauty rather than relying on surface embellishment to do so. The result is an edgy alternative to your traditional bride, without being ridiculous nor over-designed.

TEMPERLEY LONDON

Temperley London Spring 2017 Bridal Collection offers a delicate, feminine take on the classical bride. The range explores chiffons with embroidered sections and cord detailing. Subtle ruffling is cleverly positioned to soften the silhouette whilst creating a distinct feminine edge, making this bridal collection a standout for a light summery wedding gown option.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Oscar de la Rentas’ Spring 2017 Bridal Collection is nothing short of exquisite. The wedding range offers a variety of options from a short, minimal strapless knee-length dress for bridesmaids and flower girls, all the way though to big sculptured, pleated, asymmetric skirts. The core of the range explores varieties of a strapless bodice for a bare shoulder look, tucked at the waist, flowing through into mermaid skirts and climaxing in boxy pleated low-heavy skirt details. Harmoniously balanced classic and modern, no stuttering here, utter perfection. This is a designer wedding collection that cannot be missed for your special wedding occasion.

MARCHESA

The Marchesas’ bride for Spring 2017 is embellished with floral 3D appliques and laser cut flowers constructed from Organza, layered and crafted into beautiful delicate feminine silhouettes, floral bunching and feathering. In some parts the use of flowers tends to be clumsy and over-bearing, taking away from the flattering possibilities of a simple tailored gown and tending to read heavily on the body. Even the poor size 6 model is struggling to look good, ultimately looking a bit frumpy in these numbers. The classical silhouette in this bridal collection is cut in all the wrong places, making the female form look short and stocky. The overly soft and delicate use of tulle walks a fine line of annoying and barely acceptable, you be the judge.

Several simple alternatives have also been included in the mix for a bride that prefers something cleaner and more elegant. The result highlights poor tailoring making you wonder why there are so many flowers in this range? Could they be there to conceal the imperfections in construction techniques? Overall, the collection is fragmented and forced, not telling a coherent story as if the initial mood board won the race. For a brand of this calibre – this collection is a disappointment.

ELLIE SAAB

Ellie Saabs’ 2017 Bridal Collection explores surface embellishment, through fine French hand beading, making you wonder if the textile manufactures should be applauded or the fashion house itself? The results is a traditional and standard looking collection that is not doing anything particularly interesting nor innovative, obviously playing it safe.

Finely tailored with distinct waist-lines, full skirts and bolero frilled styled over pieces, Saabs’ bridal collection is a must have for a traditional wedding occasion. The silhouette offers high necklines and cropped sleeves in all varieties for a more covered up look, layered with vails and tulle throws. Beautiful, not overly exciting, this collection is a solid offering for Saab followers that like to cover up.

ANGEL SANCHEZ

Angel Sanchez, my sweet heart, it’s obvious when something traditional is done exceptionally well and in a modern light. This bridal collection is a beautifully balanced, fluid and structured silhouette. The range is extremely well-tailored and the careful gestures are sharp and clear, but ever so gently.

This collection shows tailoring and design at the highest degree. The fit of these gowns is immaculate, feminine and refined. The collection is delicate and the composition of the elements is superb. The proportions of the different materials in this wedding collection is what true mastery and craftsmanship is about.